One coat five ways

Some garments are never unfashionable. As trends come and go, they occasionally rise to the height of fashion and then ease back into their long-established and comfortable position as a trusted and timeless classic.

One such item is the trench coat.

Burberry is responsible for the most classic and desirable version. Great, stiff fabric; just the right neutral shade (neither too pink nor too white); the cut and details pared back to achieve a tasteful, minimalistic chic:

Burberry

The Burberry trench coat is an aspirational product, and a bit of a stretch for most of us, financially. But spring is approaching, and the trench is the perfect transitional jacket. So because it is having a bit of a moment, I thought that I’d suggest a few more affordable ways that you can nod to the trend this season.

Starting with the traditional shape, Marks and Spencer has a couple of options, both under £100:

M&S

(Left, and Right)

Alternatively, ASOS is riffing on the theme with this trench dress:

ASOS

Which would also look great over cigarette pants and a semi-sheer long-sleeved top.

Now, if like me you feel it’s unbecoming to parade your nipped-in waist – oh alright, so I’m a bit thick around the middle right now – then loose hanging is probably best, so here is a nautically-inspired model from Laura Ashley:

Laura Ashley

A bit less formal and great fun for the summer.

In a similar vein, Poetry has a loosely-structured coat which offers limited protection from the weather, being more of a glamorous cover-up:

Poetry

Finally, one of my favourite brands, Max Mara, is responsible for this fabulously elegant and versatile coat in black:

Max Mara

Great for the apples and the pears!

 

(GOOD LUCK TONIGHT!) Julianne Moore (1960)

Seen here looking fabulous at the recent BAFTA awards, Julianne Moore is up for an Oscar tonight for her role in Still Alice:

Julianne

Born in 1960, Ms Moore has an incredible list of awards to her name.  She is still working at the peak of her (very demanding) profession, and showing no sign of slowing down.

She has been nominated five times for an Oscar, so maybe this time the judges will get it right.

1997 Boogie Nights Best Supporting Actress Nominated
1999 The End of the Affair Best Actress Nominated
2002 Far from Heaven Nominated
The Hours Best Supporting Actress Nominated
2014 Still Alice Best Actress

PS, well you know what happened… Hooray!

Texture

Ensemble

Nothing says ‘summer’s here!’ quite so emphatically as an all-white outfit, and as far as I am concerned the sooner the better!

Reading about the trends for spring and summer 2015, ‘all-white’ crops up regularly, perhaps thanks to Kim Kardashian, who is often seen head-to-toe in white.  But it is not the easiest look to achieve.

Interior designers’ clients sometimes complain that a room looks ‘flat’.  When asked to describe the room they will say, ‘Well, I have cream cotton sofas, cream wool carpet, matt cream-painted walls.’  The problem is not the similarity of colour.  It is that the palette of materials is too similar: there is no variety in surface texture, translucency or scale of weave.

Kelly Hoppen, a designer who is famous for neutral schemes, achieves contrast within a constrained colour palette by mixing materials with very different light-reflecting properties: soft furnishings in linen, silk, suede, velvet and wool are placed next to sheer and translucent materials, as well as metals, stone and glass.  The play of light across the surfaces of these materials – some absorbing light and others reflecting it – is what stimulates the eye and creates drama.

So what does that mean for the all-white fashion trend?  Well, first of all you should make sure that your component parts are all exactly the same shade of white.  Don’t mix bright white with winter white, ivory, or cream: the effect will be more washing machine accident than all-white palette.  Then you should ensure that the components have distinct textural properties: some should be opaque and others sheer, some matt while their neighbours are shiny.  But all in the same ‘white’ colour.

Quite the most striking white garment I have seen in the spring and summer 2015 collections is this semi-sheer parka from ASOS:

Parka

It is nylon, with a parachute-silky texture and volume. Generous in cut, and with great movement.  And it packs into a small pouch which lends it a slightly ‘scrunched’ appearance.

It is a thin garment, so for the British spring I would pair it with a cashmere sweater from J Crew:

Sweater

Soft, matt, and slightly fluffy, this long sweater is a great textural contrast to the nylon shell. White denim bottoms bring a distinctive diagonal twill weave. How about boyfriend jeans (reviewed with five stars on the White Company website) or these 7/8th jeans, paired with leather Superga plimsolls, whose leather introduces a more closed grain and reflective texture:

Jeans

I’d be inclined to accessorise with silver-coloured metal. Cos has a lovely suite called ‘Contrast’, and I’m going for the ring and necklace set because their brushed metal surfaces have a subtle striation:

Jewellery

To break it up a bit more, I’d extend the introduction of silver to the remaining accessories, in this case the silver White Company cashmere scarf, with semi-sheer, soft matt, open weave:

Scarf

 

Accent

I love accessories. In my opinion they are every bit as important as the outfits they adorn – maybe even more so.

I have two particularly stylish friends who treat their clothes as a uniform – simple lines and all in one quiet colour. The clothes are not the main event: they are just the backdrop for their accessories. After years of joint shopping trips, they both have huge collections of scarves, bracelets, flat shoes and bags, and by using their knowledge of colour theory to compose carefully co-ordinated suites of accessories, they are two of the best-dressed people I know. A grey base layer is brought to life with a splash of burnt orange; a dull claret silhouette is rendered sharp by a dash of mustard.

Dressing is like cooking: accessories are the seasoning, the aroma of spice or the bite of chilli that elevates a dish and makes it memorable. Not too much, mind you, or they will overwhelm. One item too many and instead of making a startling impact you can look like you’re trying too hard. A subtle sprinkling is the goal: follow Coco Chanel’s advice and always take off one piece of jewellery before leaving the house.

But accessories are only one of the ways you can deploy the design principle of ACCENT.

Accent is a small amount of contrasting decoration used to create drama in an overall scheme. The contrast can be of texture, tone, or colour. Presenting two well-chosen elements in opposition enhances the beauty of both.

Please allow Victoria Beckham to demonstrate:

The silky silver dress and tonally-matching make-up provides a neutral backdrop for the striking ring: the bold, statement ring makes the dress appear more elegantly restrained. Each accentuates the best qualities of the other, and the different light-reflecting qualities of the materials (faceted and smooth) create a powerful contrast.  Add more detail here and the effect would be lost.

Accent creates drama.

Outfit

This monochromatic outfit of black with a simple white T-shirt is smart but unspectacular until the splashes of acid yellow are added, creating a contrast in both colour and tone. And by involving the design principle of repetition, the effect is reinforced. Either the necklace or backpack on its own would be striking, but in combination the outfit says: this isn’t an accident! The result is a confident and striking statement.

Bomber jacket by ASOS, T-shirt by ASOS, turn-up trousers by Boden, shoes by Whistles, necklace by Cos, and rucksack by Brooks

Book Review: “In Your Prime: Older, Wiser, Happier” by India Knight

Knight

I love my old friends. As long-term subscribers to the soap-operas of each other’s lives, we are already familiar with the full cast of characters and all of the possible plot permutations. It’s a very efficient form of friendship: you can jump straight in with the latest instalment. And we are all very fond of each other – after all, we’ve made the effort to stay in touch – which makes for a comfortable and safe environment in which we can all say what we really think.

Well, now I have a new one. That’s right: a new old friend!

How is this possible, you might ask? Well, her name is India Knight and – as improbable as this may seem – she wrote me a book!

I know that she wrote it for me because, like all my old old friends, she knows exactly what I am interested in and what I want to talk about; she’s frank and intimate, she sounds just like one of the gang, she is wise, and she is well-informed, with masses of good advice across a wide range of topics.  She knows that I live in London and has shared the contact details of some of her favourite therapists with me.  She is a bit obsessed with her feet, but at our age we all repeat ourselves occasionally and get fixated on things – it’s part of our charm.

This book covers the most common life experiences of the middle-aged woman and it is laugh-out-loud funny in places.  (Please accept this apology if you were in the dentist’s waiting room with me when I was reading about friends cancelling dates!)  Sections on handling elderly relatives and coping with divorce are sad but realistic and helpful.  Better out than in!

My one concern is her business plan: she seems eminently sensible, but writing whole books for individual readers at only £7 a pop cannot be profitable?

Anyway, clearly she spotted that in this transitional time of life I need reassurance and a pep talk. She saw that I was feeling a bit wobbly, and I have to say that reading her book has been uplifting and affirming. And even though this book was clearly written with me in mind, she seems like such a reasonable person that I’m sure she wouldn’t mind if you read it too.

book 1

Reasons to be cheerful

To mis-quote Dean Martin, the weather outside is frightful, but in my head it’s quite delightful.

I am in deepest Denial-shire and looking forward to warmer weather, longer days, and some spring additions to my wardrobe that will be available soon.  In my deluded state I have found these three reasons to be cheerful:

  1. A gingham trend for spring and summer 2015. I’ve always loved checks, as long as the look ends up more Hepburn/Kelly than Baby Jane.
  2. Flats, slides and sneakers are still cool. Because they are COMFORTABLE.
  3. Whistles are making a small version of their big hit ‘Verity’ backpack. A happy combination of practical and beautiful in one very useful bag!

With this in mind, I’m hatching plans for weekend sightseeing in European capitals – Paris and Rome, please! – and have already assembled an outfit that is adaptable, chic, and fashionable.

 

Cheerful

Black/white is a trend for the spring too, so this Hobbs Twitchill dress (super comfortable and just below the knee) is a double winner. Last summer I hankered after bright fluorescent trainers, but this year these New Balance gingham & mint 996 shoes are perfect. Boden’s cropped cashmere is a wardrobe staple. And to carry around my Euros, guidebooks, sunglasses, and perhaps a change of shoes for the evening – the Whistles backpack.

Smoking!

Charlotte-RamplingFlicking through the glossies over the festive season I came face-to-face with this image on more than one occasion.  Now I get why Yves Saint Laurent called it ‘Le Smoking’ back in the 1960s!

Charlotte Rampling in Nars make-up and tuxedo…  Please can I look like that when I’m in my late 60s?  Please?

 

Cheer up! Look, here are some pretty pictures…

January is a difficult month: cash-strapped, cold, a bit overweight, and generally deprived of daylight. So hooray for the frivolous fashion explosion that is the Golden Globes. Perfect timing – thank you, Hollywood!

Star billing this year went to someone who is perhaps not technically our demographic, but who is nonetheless an embodiment of the classic, elegant grace that we aspire to at InnerMutton. His wife scrubs up pretty well too – even if she is a bit too young to be an official Role Model.

amal

That Dior dress was the big winner of the night, along with the gloves, which spawned many column inches this morning.

Here… have some more tonic:

jessica and amy

Two lovely redheads in beautifully constructed dresses: Amy Adams and Jessica Chastain both chose colours which emphasised the warmth of their striking natural colouring.

And Helen Mirren looked positively joyous: brim-full of confidence. Well, why not? As usual, she was an inspiration.

helen

And finally, another imposter – practically a child. I do love Lupita’s style: it’s just a little bit barmy, but tasteful at the same time. What fun!

lupita

 

One At A Time, Please!

If I were asked to design a bathroom (or any other room involving brassware: taps, traps, towel rails, etc.) I would not dream of mixing my metals. You don’t want brass? Okay, well then nickel or chrome, perhaps? Certainly not the two together!

There are some aspects of interior design that are non-negotiable. Good grief, I can’t sleep in a room where the hinges don’t match the door handles!

The same rule applies to personal presentation.

I am not just referring to jewellery: this is a multi-layered problem.

Here is something that makes me very happy: the buckles on my Fiorentini & Baker boots match the clasp (and other metal parts) of my Mulberry handbag:

boots and bag

I regard these as outer wrapping: I am not so pernickety that I would never wear white metal jewellery as part of this outfit. But as a rule I try to match my shoe metal to my bag, and similarly any jewellery I wear always comes from one metal family only.

watch and bracelet

My current favourite day wear includes a combination of white-coloured metal in the form of a steel watch and Hermes chaine d’ancre silver bracelet worn on the same wrist:

Between you and me, the Rolex is actually a bit of a fantasy (hint to Editor) and I am pretty happy with the Sekonda that is currently standing in for the part of lead watch:

sekonda

I hope the point is clear. No gold rings, necklaces or earrings worn as part of this ensemble.

Non-negotiable.